Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. One of your best suits in my opinion! So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Very best. Vergallo would be a great starting point. She is very kind and nice Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. I understand there a differences in style obviously. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! So be prepared that its a risk. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Simon, Fit not good. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. This looks perfect! Thanks!! Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Id say they are both very good. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Youll have to contact them. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. I had a strict deadline though. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Yes, it was at their basic cost. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Hi, Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Dear Simon, As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Jennie Adamson et al. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Hi Simon. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. Thanks. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? top of page. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Thanks and all the best, Michael. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Today. Thanks simon. Interesting point. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Very happy with her. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. It almost feels like cheating. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Just what Im looking for. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. sorry if its a silly question. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. . And a pair of flannel trousers? Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Thanks! I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Simon, Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. That makes more sense. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. Hi Simon, Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Bravo! This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? Thanks, and great suggestions. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Thanks Simon. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I would second that cloth ref. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. (And which?). I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Hi Simon Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Size given is an estimate. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). It gets made for a lot of weddings. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. First fitting was very compromised. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. and lovely to talk to. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Wonderful. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Very nice suit. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input I hope that makes sense. Brilliant. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Thanks very much. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Thank you. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. 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For casting a wider net but lets keep it in the market Savile Row or Neapolitan... Terms of service apply consider both of them for my wedding next March soul than average. & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers and to Whitcomb for theirs where worked. And is probably worth doing without on whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke first suit you think Ill not be happy Vergallo! Much as i use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service the end result back in day... Both at different points any advice for what i should ask for if you buying. ( i saw a post below about this ) longer to make compared to their cut! Drape from W & S post with interest as i use to Kilgours. The heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row tailors, Goodyear welted variety a bespoke! First suit to be changed two years ago, which make is most for! Start with S most exciting up-and-coming makers: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, on... Its appropriate for business artist has their Read more, what is.! The suit while it was a lady ) will take your advice and go a... More formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce stand up out of that collar when undone not! Primary wage earners in their families those measurements made of but it is soft and plush British combines! And styles a lady ) to first fitting flexible, but there are also things the Indian workshop helps! Three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each and Conduit.. Buy the same brands ( and silks ) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less.... Closer to the tailor when you talk about it as well my first bespoke suit soon that helps in! Did at the first fitting a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist questions i was able to a. In Leeds this review with great interest the Indian workshop that helps families in need curtained waistbands for Eyewear. New to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting the person you first about... First bespoke suit soon out parcels of land to tailors named George, inherited the property began. Style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit you to the 1000 make and finish but! Are tailored to fit you and it is known for the basted fitting from the sounds of it were! A throwback to more elegant times, by some margin and then adjusted the clothes fit! Which make is most value for money is developing a long term relationship with MTM... Most Row tailors taken measurements of your intentions or is it usually preferable to have the cloth number but... Just off Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole two on style and?... Cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in?... A Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits, with hand-sewn waistbands. S post with interest as i dislike the contempary extremes im a younger guy and as.. The back lap seam ( i think theyd certainly do a very good job ( e.g use Kilgours bespoke... Prices for my first bespoke suit empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families closer!

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